Publication date: Available online 6 October 2017
Source:Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie
Author(s): F. Poli, J.-P. Claudel, N. Auffret, M.-T. Leccia, B. Dréno
L'acné est une maladie chronique pouvant induire des séquelles telles que des cicatrices atrophiques ou hypertrophiques, ou de l'hyperpigmentation postinflammatoire. Les médicaments topiques ou systémiques ayant une activité pharmacologique et une autorisation de mise sur le marché sont les acteurs clés du traitement de l'acné. Ces traitements topiques ou systémiques induisent souvent des effets secondaires en lien avec l'altération de la barrière cutanée. Ils doivent donc être associés à des cosmétiques qui viseront à protéger la barrière cutanée. Avec l'arrivée sur le marché de produits cosmétiques contenant des ingrédients actifs évalués en laboratoire sur des cultures cellulaires ou des échantillons de tissus, et testés cliniquement sur un nombre souvent très limité de sujets, le monde des cosmétiques a changé. En utilisant le terme « dermo-cosmétique » et avec l'introduction d'ingrédients actifs dans les formulations, les cosmétiques se présentant aujourd'hui comme adaptés à une pathologie cutanée ne se limitent plus à l'entretien et l'hygiène de la peau, mais visent à apporter aux personnes souffrant de cette pathologie cutanée un produit complémentaire, voire une alternative aux médicaments. Le but de cet article est de mieux comprendre et clarifier le rôle respectif des médicaments topiques et des cosmétiques dans la prise en charge de l'acné.Acne is a chronic disease that may cause sequels such as atrophic or hypertrophic scars or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Topical and systemic medications with proven pharmacologic activity and which have received marketing authorization are the key actors in the treatment of acne. However, these topical or systemic treatments frequently cause adverse effects related to impairment of the skin barrier, and cosmetics must therefore be used in combination to help protect the skin barrier. Nowadays, new cosmetic products containing active ingredients tested in vitro or in a small number of subjects have changed the world of cosmetics. In being described as "dermo-cosmetic" and in integrating active ingredients in their formulations, these cosmetics are now being presented as being specifically adapted for a given disease, and no longer limited to skin care and hygiene but suitable as an adjunctive or even an alternative to current medications. The aim of this article is to provide a better understanding of the respective roles of medications and cosmetics in the management of acne.
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